He/him

Formerly on .world.

  • 5 Posts
  • 60 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: July 4th, 2023

help-circle









  • WFH@lemm.eeto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldLinux compatible printer.
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    48
    ·
    2 months ago

    Your OS doesn’t matter. Printers are dumb and only understand Gcode, which is basically a series of steps to follow for printing your part (move the head this amount in that direction while extruding that much etc.). Producing that code is the slicer’s job. What you want is a slicer that works perfectly on Linux. And good news, all open-source slicers work perfectly on Linux. What you need tho is a slicer that includes your printer’s profile.

    Try Cura or Prusaslicer (available as Flatpaks) or Orcaslicer (Appimage for now but will move to Flatpak eventually).






  • WFH@lemm.eetolinuxmemes@lemmy.worldWhy block muting the OS?
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    15
    ·
    2 months ago

    Regular Linux distros have 30+ years of history. It’s what most of us are used to. Immutable/atomic/transactional OSes are relatively recent hence the relatively low adoption rate.

    Also, atomic OSes are, by nature, much harder to tinker with. After all, the goal is to provide the exact same image for all users. As a power user, it’s a bit frustrating. As a new user, having a virtually unborkable system is excellent.

    If you plan on installing an atomic variant of Fedora, may I suggest uBlue Aurora instead of Fedora Kinoite? It is based on Silverblue/Kinoite but includes by default, among other QOL improvements, the restricted-licence codecs that must be manually installed in official Fedora products.


  • Thanks for the feedback!

    I’m pretty happy with the transparencies tbh. Although on mine, there seems to be two sides, one that gives a fuzzy dirty effect with a lot of stray toner around the actual print (looks like static), and the other side that gives perfectly crisp prints. Unfortunately I can’t really tell the sides apart.

    Apart from that small speck of dust that prevented the transfer at the top left of the logo, the sheet came out perfectly clean, the totality of the toner was transferred to the dial. For PCB transfers where you could probably keep the sheet intact (I had to cut mine to fit between the applied indices), that would also mean the sheet would be almost indefinitely reusable.