Just research ahead and don’t buy one with a known hardware defect such as the 5As which are notorious for frying motherboards and screens. Went through 5 of them with the extended warranty over my phones life and they all died while in my hand abruptly. Less than a year or life per device almost always failing around 8 months for me.

If grapheneOS wasn’t so damn good I would’ve left pixels after that, Pixel XL abruptly died, 2XL had both cameras and the fingerprint sensor die out of nowhere, then the 4 5As. On an 8a right now and love it so fingers crossed it lasts!

If they had a user repairable device that ran it I’d buy it in a heartbeat

This is pretty great advice to get into it. I previously ran 3 poweredge 2950s but have since switched to nothing self hosted and back to everything self hosted but on a much leaner setup with a NUC and 14tb WD my book drive with a dual Noctua 4020 fan shroud I 3d printed that it absolutely needed as I killed the original drive in two weeks.

My replica is just a 14tb in my desktop I run rsync to pull the data occasionally after checking SMART status on the primary. It’s not versioned or perfect but it works great to give me a chance to backup my jellyfin media. Everything I care about also gets backed up via restic.

Eventually plan to run a build with the Modcase MASS with multiple drives but for now this setup has been working fantastic.

Definitely keeping me far away from upgrading, newest vehicle is an early 2000s Corolla and still does 40mpg.

Honestly with how cheap and easy it is to fix at home, barring safety improvements I really don’t see a point in upgrading. Infotainment is just another component that will eventually go obsolete like the ones from ~2010 that are dog slow and a pain to go aftermarket on.

Adding to this, automatic plate flippers exist and are pretty popular for show cars to display something else when parked. Typically wired to ignition so it shows your plate only when the cars running.

Issue is if you street park dependent on the state, if the vehicle registration is hidden by the plate being flipped they can likely tow it. Would work great for at work/in your driveway though. Could maybe just have a bypass switch for if you need to park somewhere and display the plate.

Still a pain in the ass that it’s this bad though.

Really depends on the make, you can get Mitchell and AllData prior to the subscription model (takes about a TB of space, from 1980s to 2013) to help with diagrams and disassembly and reassembly. Mitchell’s wiring diagrams really are a lifesaver.

Dealer level software/scanner combo you can get from obdii365, I got a Hyundai scanner from them and it worked well but you want to run the software in a VM or isolate it some other way and probably wouldn’t network it.

Vxdiag is pretty solid as well for the dealer software/scanner and you can usually get via Amazon but again I wouldn’t trust the software. I have their ford one and used it with IDS to set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack.

The software itself you can find via Google if it’s all you need but typically the scanner is very specific to the software for the dealership stuff

Be careful depending on the model, some of those run hot. I managed to kill one in under 2 weeks just by copying a large amount of data to it and had to print a fan shroud for it’s replacement to keep the temps at a reasonable level.

I use iptvini since it's pretty cheap ($80 for 2 years). For us it's really just an easy way to watch some sports, running the arr stack and Jellyfin so any shows we're watching just go through that since ads on TV suck lol

Can connect with Infuse to your server, swiftfin has a ways to go to be ready for primary use

Adjust your thumbstick deadzone if you haven't yet, the default is super high I run mine at 2000 and it made them feel a lot more responsive.

I like to have gyro aim only when I touch the right track pad, playing through Halo MCC right now and it's fantastic, especially using turrets with gyro. Thumbstick for general movement, track pad and gyro for combat.

We're using the grunt party skull where you get the party sounds and streamers when you headshot them and I'm able to pretty consistently nail them after a few missions with that setup.

Not using any auto aim

I see no reason to not use both. Got a show you’re watching that has new releases? Have Sonarr track it and auto download them as they release. Want to try a new show but not sure you’ll like it or just a single season? Debrid.

I will say, Jellyfin with Infuse on apple tv is rather easy to use for non technical people where they would struggle with stremio a little more.

Still a far cry from the early XBMC/Kodi days where you had to manually try like 20 sources before you could watch both options really are great

Heavily agree, a lot of content had issues playing for me with swiftfin. No issues at all with Infuse other than the fact that intro skipper doesn’t work with it

Lidarr for most, soulseek (slskd) for anything Lidarr can’t get in FLAC

I sure hope so, I love my steam controller but it really could benefit from dual thumbsticks

What’s up dog?

Unsure on the sharks but a lot of the roombas have an open source project (ha980?) that lets you run all the Apis locally and cut it off from the internet fully. Mines managed through home assistant now, it’s not perfect but it beats the heck out of that shitty iRobot app

I have one of those cheap TCL Roku TVs, I think it was something like $130 for a 55 inch a few years ago on sale.

I put it on a VLAN then added a rule just for it to only ever allow communication to my Jellyfin server. No internet, no other devices, Wireless AP isolation, just able to access that port on that address.

It works ok but it does nag me that it’s not connected when opening Jellyfin, cheaper than adding a dedicated TV box to it though! I tried a similar setup with an old Fire TV and it really doesn’t like being “offline” like that and makes you navigate through the settings to open any of the apps.

If I were buying new I’d try to go for a monitor for sure, it’s just not worth all the potential issues.

Mull with ublock origin, always on VPN to my house with pihole for DNS.

I use Firefox for the “installed” web pages for quick access to internal things like Sonarr since Mull would log me out fairly often.

I’ve got 3 Wyze cam v3s running the wyze mini hacks firmware sectioned off in a VLAN that can only reach Frigate (no internet).

I have frigate running on a cheap Lenovo M900 I got on ebay for $65 that has an i7 and 8gb of memory and it actually does fairly well without the Google coral USB TPU as long as that was the only service on that system. Trying to run Frigate on my NUC with other services without a TPU caused some issues with CPU usage but with a TPU I would bet it’ll all run on the one system.

Home assistant works exceptionally well for notifying, one of my cameras I have on UDP since the signal isn’t great and get a couple artifacts that trip it up but other than that it has been much quicker to notify and more reliable than anything in the consumer market I’ve tried so far.

I’m on the 5A now and my wife has a 7, her 7 has the screen randomly freak out where you can’t even turn it on or reset (holding power will make it vibrate after about a second preventing the hold to reset). Just have to mess with it until you can get in and hit restart then it’s fine for another week or two usually.

The 5A is fantastic until it abruptly dies which has happened to me twice now (both times while sitting with it in my hand). If they didn’t have screen and motherboard issues I would absolutely run this phone into the ground since it’s a great experience with GrapheneOS, has a headphones jack, and has the rear facing fingerprint sensor.

I can’t speak to the 6 but I know some people didn’t like them after the 5 since it switched to tensor

Weird mine was $0