The enclosure for my SV08 arrives today. Looks like my first ABS print is decided. I was trying to figure out how to cleanly/neatly arrange a cable on the dash (from the break controller display) so it doesn’t block a couple switches and the stereo. Thanks for the design!

GTA5 still works, just not online/multi-player. Story mode works.

I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast.

My tuned/reliable profile (on Prusaslicer) on the Ender 3v2 was 40-60 mm/s and acceleration 200 mm/s^2. The stock profile (on Orca) for the SV08 is 200-300 mm/s and acceleration of 20000 mm/s^2. That’s probably why such a dramatic speed increase.

Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this.

The auto z-offset on the SV08 heats the bed to 65, then does a QGL, followed by cleaning the nozzle, then the z-offset calibration (using the inductive probe on both the bed and the z-offset probe), followed by a bed mesh, then a test print. Most of what I’ve read is that the heater is not the most efficient at heating the bed up completely. That’s why everyone (Sovol included) recommend heat soaking for the initial z-offset. After I did that, I’ve had no problems with first layers.

I have an Ender 3V2 that I converted to direct drive with linear rails and CR Touch, and was pretty happy with the reliability of it. I’ve been wanting to build a Voron forever, but the amount of hours to build/cost of a kit (I can’t print ABS) was a barrier to entry.

I just picked up a Sovol SV08, which is a derivative of the Voron 2.4 (there are some proprietary parts on it, but $579 vs. $1000-1200 for a kit, I’m OK with that). I’m pretty happy with it thus far, although it did require some initial tinkering. Here are the highlights:

• Core XY
• Enclosure Ready
• Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08).
• Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset.
• Got super frustrated why I couldn’t figure out the inconsistent extrusion/shitty prints. Tightened the tension screw on the extruder. Problem solved (rookie move).

Time will tell if it’s a long term printer, or more of a tinkerer. However, they open sourced it all - and there’s already a ton of mods. Printing the housing for the BTT 5" touchscreen, saving me $50 over buying a touchscreen from Sovol. It might be worth a look.

Family and some friends from back in my days in the military. Those guys are who I keep an eye on, because they don’t use it as frequently as my family.

I use it to track users use/watch habits, to restrict their access if need be. Every user with a password that may or may not be strong is a weak point in my network security.

If the unit you buy has an IR remote, you could look into Sensibo as an add-on. I just installed a Mr. Cool mini split, and set up a Sensibo Air at the same time. The Sensibo integration is two parts - Homekit and API from their cloud service. Most of my automations use only the Homekit integration. Sensibo’s website will also let you check to see if the AC unit you’re thinking of works with Sensibo.

The other partner in FUTO is Louis Rossman. Maybe one cancels out the other?

What are render times like?

I’ve built every NAS/home server I’ve ever had. There’s lots of options out there for the case as well. You could take an SFF Mini ITX case with a single 5 1/4" drive bay and put an icy dock 8 x 2.5" SATA backplane in it. Don’t know if icy dock (brand) is widely available in Europe…

Just pointing out that if you imagine it (form factor with 8 hot swappable drives) there’s probably a solution to build it from scratch.

More than likely. Since the description clearly states “8x3.5 HDD Hot-Swap drive bays.” It’s not the only case of similar form factor that you can get 8 hot swap drive bays. There are literally tons of NAS case designs to choose from.

https://www.newegg.com/black-jonsbo-n3-mini-itx/p/2AM-006A-000E1?item=9SIAY3SJYT0310&cm_sp=SP-_-974336-_-0-_-1-_-9SIAY3SJYT0310-_-nas+case-_-case|nas-_-1

For the life of me, I can’t figure out the search terms I need to find what I’m looking for. On top of that, I’m beginning to think I heard it on a podcast. But I seem to remember an interview with someone at Valve talking about how they were upstreaming EVERYTHING they were doing. I would assume that meant kernel work as well.

I use some of their switches using Home Assistant’s Homekit integration. Set them up on wifi in their app, add to HA, then block internet access in my router’s firewall. Kind of the best of both worlds at that point.

OpenMediaVault is a Debian server with a Web UI.

I did. This should teach me not to try and cook dinner and post at the same time. I’m NOT that good at multitasking…

AM5 sockets are now LGA like Intel. AM4 was the last PGA socket, so bent pins on the chip are a thing of the past. Make sure to leave the socket cover in place while installing the CPU. Now, the fear is bending a pin on the MoBo.

Not to sound flippant, but it seems like a solution looking for a problem. I use the --cleanup flag, and if there’s an issue, rolling back is as simple as changing dockerimage:latest to dockerimage:version that worked.

Unless I’m missing something.

I might have to downvote you. After all that, you could probably afford one. Forget a RAID though.

I’m using the flatpak version of Steam, if you go down the road - I’ve read that what few VR games that work on Linux will not work with the flatpak version. I’m sure that could be fixed/worked through. Just something to keep in mind.