Bit of a, bit of b, thermal protection on printers sets a minimum hotend and bed temperature, it’s configurable but 0c is pretty common. Drop below that and the firmware will trip an emergency shutdown in klipper, some (mk3s) set off an alarm beeper when that happens.

Higher ambient helps with chamber temps too depending on what you print. I let my printers heat soak for at least an hour before I print anyhow, the space heater gives some stability in ambient temps.

Also done prints where I’ve just blasted the hotend and build plate with a heatgun to get above the min temps to be able to get a heat soak going. Vorons have a decently powerful bed heater (~600w if I recall), my mk3s isn’t nearly as powerful but still capable of sustaining itself (would definitely benefit from insulation)

I swear I recall a “big picture mode” config in steam in the past but can’t seem to find that at all now either, sorry I don’t have an answer for you.

I don’t live in the coldest place but it’ll hit -20s c at the coldest in the winter with -10 +/-5, summer is 30 +/-5. My garage isn’t climate controlled but not the largest, a space heater is enough to bring ambient up enough to be comfortable, certainly enough where the printer firmware doesn’t kick out on low temperatures.

I have enclosures so it helps some, mk3s doesn’t get super warm as it’s currently setup but I do regularly successfully print abs on it, petg and pla aren’t an issue at all, voron gets substantially warmer. Summer, enclosures need to be open to print pla depending how hot it is. Even with all that, I’d recommend it, I do it primarily for air quality reasons, I’ve printed abs indoors without an enclosure in the same room exactly once a long time ago, 0/10 don’t recommend.

I worked in primary metals for a while, core business applications still ran on mainframes, they had a project to move some of them to SAP that apparently had the same timelines as nuclear fusion (perpetually x years away).

Stuff that’s in use I try to keep inside the enclosure, no humidity control in my garage so at the whims of humid continental climate, gets nasty in the summer. I keep things vac sealed with silca gel for long periods and print from dry boxes or enclosure mounts to take advantage of the lower humidity while printing.

Working on a powered dry box using solid state dehumidifiers like used in this, hope that’ll help with humidity issues.

Some filament isn’t super sensitive, my experience pa6>petg>abs=pla.

What are y’all doing that you need to troubleshoot constantly? My experience with arch is about the same as my experience with Debian.

Morrowind (OpenMW) with Just good Morrowind it’s been a long time since I’ve done a full playthrough.

Same boat, has taken years of therapy as part of my treatment plan to start working through those learned behaviours.

ADHD sucks ass.

Quick look, found a place that offers some They’re not cheap but you can definitely get them.

Probably, it’s not pleasant stuff afaik, was looking at it earlier and it seemed like you could probably source it domestically fairly easily too, didn’t seem like you’d need special licenses or anything. Not stuff I want to keep around though, not that a lot of solvents that work on thermoplastics are nice to be around for one reason or another.

Ducky has programmable keys FYI, while you don’t have dedicated media keys it’s really easy to bind media key macros, fn+pg up/down are volume, fn+end is pause etc on mine.

Razer keyboards I’d shy away from personally, found their build quality isn’t great, mice specifically, the ducky is more comfortable for me to use anyhow. My partner has a one 3 tkl in white with clears, I have a black one with browns (used blacks for years, prefer tactile+clicky after having used them).

Tbh not sure, I don’t have one to try with, baked on petg reminded me of enamel coatings. Solvents do work, just most of the ones I’m aware of for petg aren’t pleasant, flammable and toxic stuff.

Echo others, nozzles are consumables, keep some on hand.

It’s not unusual for PETG to ooze a little after a print in my experience, but it’s been my experience that a quick brushing with a nylon or brass brush is enough, often I just knock off the bit that oozes out, haven’t had issues with offset doing that.

Baked on PETG is awful, I’ve scrapped a v6 block that blobbed itself (my fault, probably loosened it accidentally after a nozzle change, I only use hotends that don’t rotate now). Some solvents do work, but most of the stuff that dissolves petg is nasty, I don’t recommend them.

You could try some cleaning filament, personally found it fairly effective at clearing partial clogs, good stuff to have on hand anyhow.

Mine are a bit more recent (2012-202*) but same thing. Old hardware gets used for something, my “server” is just my old i5 11500k with as much ram as I could throw at it and as many drives as I can fit in the case. Oldest is a laptop that’s my bench computer.

Helps me justify upgrades, hardware’s been capable for a long time, always impressive to me just how capable things are, and sometimes it’s part of the fun (if you enjoy problem solving) to work around limitations. Off-lease enterprise stuff interests me, would need to figure out where it lives though.

I’ve been using powertools for this, has a lot more functionality than I use for GPU/CPU limits, but the charge rate limiting is nice to have as well.

Glad charge limiting is hitting the os though, assuming most people don’t go for 3rd party plugins

Second both, the phaetus nozzles are what I grabbed a bunch of when I was stocking up a few sizes of coated steel and brass nozzles, e3d are way pricier but the nozzle x and obxidian nozzles are really nice, hold up really well

500ml of black tea is going to be maybe 100mg if we’re generous, no wonder!

300mg is a lot at once, you can get more than that drinking an extra large coffee, but that’s super variable, don’t know how accurate this is

people can easily go over the recommended limit (400mg a day I think)

Is your shop/garage/space heated? That’s really impressive if not, I’m probably going to look at something like the clicky-clack door if that’s the case, I’ve been ducttaping the gap instead of figuring out a proper seal. The tiny space heater I have in the garage just can’t cut it with it actually being cold this week, so doubt I’d be able to hit those chamber temps in the winter. That soak time tracks with mine as well.

How are you planning on mounting the radiant insulation? Like between the frame and panels? Very much considering going that route on both printers, be interested seeing how well that performs, be interesting if anyone did something with Vacuum insulated panels, maybe sandwiched between ACM or something to protect them, they’re fairly rigid if I recall but it’d suck to accidentally puncture one.

I vaguely recall seeing things like this over the years. You’d want a proper annealing setup IMO if you care about functional parts, assume you’d want a mill too as that’d probably have a really nasty surface.

That totally ignores the fantastic metal vapours and other stuff that a metal printer would give off. Don’t get me wrong, I think metal printing is a super interesting idea, def think it’s more industrial though.

On the other hand, there are products like BASF ultrafuse that are intended to be printed on fdm plastic printers and through post processing you’ll end up with a metal print. No idea how well they work, but idea seems interesting and may be more accessible to hobbyists.

Misunderstood that then sorry!

I think you’re onto something wrt to thermals honestly, the changes in translucency are odd. Do you get any inconsistencies doing large solid infill? Was having some issues that’d only show up on mid print solid surfaces, top and bottom layer were slow enough to mitigate, can’t recall exactly what I did but changing spool and nozzle seemed to have helped plus I did a pid tune.

Mildly concerned I don’t have a root cause, but it seems to be resolved now.

Edit: other thing I can think of with it having sat for some time, maybe you could have an issue with lubrication settling? Linear bearings can be a right pain to grease if you don’t have access to them, but some light oil on the rails is better than nothing, what I’ve done when things sit for a while, though cycling things is likely doing more than any external lubrication would.