Ceramics are a broad class of materials with a wide spectrum of properties. There is no one singular material called “ceramic.” Ceramic materials can be made smooth and slippery or textured and grippy, and everywhere in between.

Recharging isn’t the issue, refilling is. The disposables are designed not to be refilled, so the manufacturer can turn around and sell you another entire one instead.

That’s always been my take. I would also much rather be able to easily refill the thing with whatever I want – and have control over what’s going into it (insofar as anyone can, via buying through trusted sources).

I’ve seen Big Clive’s musings on extracting rechargeable cells from these things as well. I’ve always wanted to give it a try, but somehow the apparently conscientious oiks in my neck of the woods don’t seem to litter disposable vapes everywhere so I’ve never been able to get my hands on any significant quantity of them.

It’s astounding that these things are made to just be thrown away. What an absurd amount of waste.

I guarantee you the bibles in question are provided by some local (private) fundamentalist organization. There’s no way the prison is spending its own money on that. So then you’ve got to look at who is the biggest group of religion-peddlers to find your most likely source.

In America at present, the various Christianity-adjacent sects are basically the only religious groups out proselytizing in any significant numbers. I suspect that compared to the Mormons, Jehovah’s Witnesses and Seventh Day Aventists, and assorted Evangelical/Baptist types, everyone else is basically just a rounding error.

If experience is any judge, plenty of dudes go into prison and come out Muslim. So Allah must still find them somehow.

Renaming it in Explorer does actually rename the file if all you change is the case (in current Windows, at least, see the pedantry below), but whatever mechanism Explorer uses to determine “has this file’s name changed” is apparently case insensitive. So it won’t refresh the file list. I imagine this is yet another one of those damn fool Windows 95 holdovers, or something.

You don’t have to do any multiple-renaming jiggery pokery. Just press F5 to refresh that Explorer window and magically then it’ll show you that the file’s name was indeed changed all along.

But you don’t understand, Mr… Sandbag Tiara, was it? Can I call you Sandbag?

Sandbag, what we’re really looking for in this position is someone who’s really a people person, you know? Somebody who’s a team player, ready to go the extra mile, fit in with our company culture because we’re a “”“”“family”“”“” here. Really shine in our three pointless but mandatory department-wide meetings per day, smile on demand, have a very firm handshake, and really help us close those KPI numbers.

The job in question is a backend software dev position, where the employee will theoretically never have to interact with anyone except their immediate boss, and has no reason whatsoever to emerge from their dungeon. But never mind that.

Go for it.

Doesn’t look too tough. I’m quite certain I could print that out of ABS for you. Any color you want as long as it’s black (which is all I have in stock right now).

Re: the dimensions. .STL files inherently have their dimensions baked in, as drafted by the designer. If you print it straight up without modification it will come out at the dimensions at which it was designed.

I see. Yeah, that could pose a problem.

For use in a vehicle I would definitely recommend printing out of ABS at minimum (which is what most OEM plastic car components are made out of anyway, at least the ones I’ve looked at in my life that were marked as such on the back), so you’ll need someone who can do that with their machine also. PLA and probably even PETG will deform in a car sitting in the sun.

I’m probably not local but I am a nerd, and my machine can indeed print ABS. Post the file and I’ll take a look at it?

Yeah, PETG or ABS/ASA would probably be my go-to. For what it’s worth, I’m pretty sure basically all commercial plastic spools are injection molded out of ABS.

Where are you located, as in what country? That will probably change the answer a lot.

I would advise finding a local nerd to print it for you rather than using a commercial print service. For functional parts, it may take multiple attempts or some fiddling to ultimately get it right, which is going to be a massive pain in the ass if you’re ordering parts by mail and paying for each one.

This is what I did. I have not had to change nozzles since.

I will say, however, that this will definitely prompt you to git gud at cleaning nozzles, and inventing jigs and tools for doing so, because you’ll no longer just want to shrug and throw away your current nozzle if it clogs badly.

If you have a Dremel, grind a slot into it and unscrew it.

This has saved my ass many times. I keep one of those diamond coated wheels on a spare cutoff mandrel already mounted up pretty much specifically for this purpose.

Harbor Freight has a pretty cheap left handed drill bit set that is sometimes a lifesaver in these situations. Many times I just start drilling it with the left hand bit and often the bit grabs and unscrews the screw before even getting to the phase of trying the screw extractor on it. Sometimes not.

For that reason I’ve always resolved that if I ever go for a smaller nozzle at some point I will probably get a smaller, cheaper dedicated printer to run that on exclusively, and leave my big printer for big stuff, with a bigger nozzle. Swapping back and forth between the two all the time sounds like a pain in the ass.

Re: the effects of nozzle wear being more noticeable with smaller sizes, I would probably also invest in a ruby or diamond nozzle – which I’ve already done at 0.4 for my current main (and only) printer.

I’ve always been intrigued with being able to create finer details but honestly, since I don’t do any tabletop or have any need to create miniatures I’ve never actually come up against anything I’ve modeled that my 0.4mm nozzle wasn’t able to produce. I am occasionally surprised at some of the tiny details my printer is able to create which are still somehow smaller than its nozzle diameter. Presumably all down to slicers being significantly smarter these days than they were even a few short years ago.

I’m amazed PLA is able to take that kind of pressure. I imagine you printed it with solid infill.

…btw.

Your issue is certainly that the designer of your model left clearances between the parts to ensure that they would fit together. This is proper and correct, because otherwise you’d never be able to physically assemble the parts here in physical reality. Some amount of tolerance is required since no printer is 100% accurate, and a total interference fit would not work with most materials anyway. The problem is, when printing as a single unitary piece that’s not what you need anymore.

You’ll have to modify the models to close these gaps, or just insert your own solid object in between them to take up the gaps and then export the whole assemblage as a single object.

Most slicers can do this, although typically the objects they can create out of thin air are only geometric primitives (cubes, spheres, cylinders, etc.) so you might not be able to create the right sized object or otherwise you’ll have to use a whole dickton of them.

FWIW, my Makita drill (18v) definitely has the BMS in the battery pack. I have two packs that came with my drill and I have re-celled both of them with fresh 18650’s, so I was in there to take a look. I’ve had the drill itself apart, too – there are no smarts whatsoever in there. I don’t have any other tools in the line, though, just their basic drill.

What’s astounding to me is that there is no provision whatsoever for balance charging or individual cell monitoring. The packs are a 5S configuration and treat the entire series lump of cells as a single whole. If one of your cells shorts the BMS will never know and your pack will just go off bang. Maybe it’ll trigger the low voltage cutoff first if you’re lucky…

Why not? When I was using a Pi to run my old printer via Octoprint, I turned the whole shebang off at the power strip when I wasn’t using it. The Pi doesn’t have a power button, so it was easiest to just killswitch the entire kit and kaboodle.