Man yeah I don’t get this one either. Is he putting bees in his dentures? Is there a punch line here?

“The real problem is that you’re using Cura and not Orca”

The developer and admin, Ernest, went through a rough patch in his life. Development and server upkeep fell off during this time, and it wasn’t picked back up again. I don’t think anyone’s heard from him in a long while now, but I don’t really know.

My first account in this place was on .ml because it was only them and beehaw at the time, and I ended up deleting it once controversy popped up lol

I probably would have gone there, but I didn’t want to make another new account, so I just ended up falling back to one I already had.

I like to think of myself as normal lol

I’m here because kbin.social died and this was my next oldest account

Hey I just saw your update! I’m glad you’re getting better results, but like you mentioned, something is definitely still wrong. I’m still pretty convinced your nozzle is clogged, even though it’s new, and I’ll do my best to explain why!

To start, if your printer wasn’t working normally before you printed in wood, I’m totally wrong about everything below and you can stop reading here!

If your printer was working normally before you tried printing in wood though, that means the e-steps were already calibrated correctly, and they wouldn’t need to be re-calibrated after replacing the hot end. If you had replaced the extruder and it started acting this way, that would be a good reason to re-calibrate the e-steps, but replacing the hot-end shouldn’t have had an impact. After swapping an extruder, you calibrate e-steps to basically teach the printer how to extrude the correct amount of filament in the real world again since the new extruder might have different specs from the original and the printer has no way to know something has changed. A hot-end swap doesn’t necessitate recalibrating e-steps though because the extruder is the same and it’s still going to be pushing the same amount of filament through the printer.

If your nozzle is clogged and you recalibrate the e-steps, the measurements you take will be off since the printer can’t push filament through at the rate it should be able to. Your new benchy looks better than before, but that could be because the higher e-steps you calculated mean the printer is now forcing more filament past the blockage by working the extruder more. It’s been calibrated to compensate for the fact it can’t push filament through fast enough, but it’s working harder to do this and it will severely limit its speed before it starts underextruding again. I’m guessing this is the reason for the 3 hour long benchy at 20mm/s? You shouldn’t need to be at 220 C to get PLA to print at 20mm/s from a 0.4mm nozzle either.

Not all nozzles or hotends are well-made or handled with care at the factory. It’s totally possible you got one that shipped with some sort of tiny unnoticeable debris inside that worked its way down into the nozzle as the filament pushed it along. I have a cheap bag of 0.4mm nozzles that have metal shavings stuck in some of them and your first benchy is exactly what my prints look like when I use one of them. If possible, I still recommend changing the nozzle before doing anything more expensive like replacing the extruder. You’ll probably need to set the e-steps back to what they were before changing them though, otherwise you’ll be extruding too much filament if the new nozzle isn’t clogged and the old one is.

Wow I just looked it up and that is the worst design I’ve ever seen. That’s a ton of work just to replace one of the most commonly changed parts.

The fact it won’t print below 220° makes me think it’s a problem with your hotend, and my best guess is that your nozzle is clogged. The higher temperature might be helping the extruder to squeeze a bit of filament around the clog, but not enough.

Changing the nozzle is quick and easy, and most printers come with a spare or two, so I would give that a shot before diving too deep into diagnostics.

I might be using it wrong, but One Note was king in college and still is for my D&D session notes now too. I never present them to anyone though.

Just ordered a pack of silicone springs as mentioned above!

I printed some locks for the leveling knobs to keep them in place, would new springs do the same thing?

I don’t think it was squished, it came out without any of those ripples and the perimeter didn’t have any elephant’s foot.

Might be! Depends on how long you’ve had the printer because more recent orders will have shipped with the allegedly fixed firmware. Basically, you want to never set the z-offset in the web UI without having the fixed firmware, otherwise things will get weird and my build plate has the scar to prove it.

Haha thankfully the first layer really was flawless, but I had to cancel this print for unrelated reasons pretty soon after posting anyways. Turns out I was so excited to finally get printing again, I forgot to re-enable supports in the slicer after the last thing I printed a while ago didn’t need them.

It’s wild to me how empty Canada is

Does iOS Edge not have the adblocker? No Firefox extensions for iOS either?

I am slowly chugging through the weird issues I have with trying to use Bazzite as my primary OS, but it will replace my Windows install soon, I can feel it. I still miss HDR, but my newest and most inconvenient issue is that Firefox just keeps crashing as soon as it launches now. No luck fixing it so far, and I installed Edge just to have a working browser.

The .com of my last name is taken by an actual business. Fine, no issue there. The .net of my last name however is being squatted on by Hover, who seems to have done the same with tons of last name domains and are selling email addresses on them in the form of firstname@lastname.net. The .org of my last name is currently redirecting to the .xyz of my last name, which looks like a family’s personal website that lists their address and phone number as a header at the top of the page.

This was the plot to an episode of iCarly