Such a great game. If you’ve never played - now’s a great time to start. They changed it just enough where all your old tricks either don’t work or are obsolete. Back to spaghetti factories and making blueprints!

Although I was SHOCKED last night to realize cliff explosives are all the way down the tech tree now. I need to redo my entire base now.

This isn’t an iPhone problem. This doesn’t happen normally. There’s one of two things going on:

1. you jailbroke your phone/sideloaded/installed some shady app. Solution: hard reset that phone and set it up as new. Do not copy over anything, and use the phone as close to stock as possible for a bit. These notifications will stop. Then you add apps and stuff slowly until you figure out what is the offender.

2. you’re being targeted. Somebody did something nefarious and they are probably good at it. It’s not easy to get into a stock device. I find this option possible but unlikely unless you’re a VIP or you’ve REALLY pissed off an ex lover or are married to overly attached girlfriend.

*Edit

Maybe there’s a third option. Maybe the phone’s hardware is just borked somehow - a chip or sensor or something is broke. /shrug. I suppose that’s possible too.

Agreed. Now that said, OP didn’t mention WHY he wanted WiFi hardware removed. Due to framework’s philosophy-it would be absolutely trivial to put one back in. Literally five screws.

Like if I was trying to keep a kid off the internet - it would probably fail. I know I’d just buy a card a pop it in when no one was looking. But I’m a rebel like that. :)

I literally just bought a framework 13 laptop and was poking around in it (because it’s a repairable laptop). It 100% has a removable wireless card, and I was surprised because I assumed those were all soldered onto main boards these days.

https://guides.frame.work/Guide/WiFi+Replacement+Guide/96

I do use a wireless keyboard/mouse combo. A very very small one. But I very rarely use that. I push all content through plex which can be driven easily with devices like firetv and have remotes. The htpc does the real work, but I don’t interface with it directly (generally speaking).

Ya, because it’s a TV. You connect those things to the inputs and drive the content from other things (game console, firetv, htpc, etc.

I’m baffled by people negatively reacting to my post. It’s how tvs have worked for 50+ years. Just because they recently got the ability to execute programs, doesn’t mean you have to use it. Just air gap it and the issue is 100% solved as far as the tv is concerned.

Why? That’s exactly what I did with my tv. It never saw the internet and works just fine. I literally don’t care what Samsung does or pushes out for updates because it doesn’t matter.

I can still do everything I want from Netflix to streaming from my NAS etc.

/shrug

Just don’t connect it to the internet.

It’s expensive but I recently bought a flydigi apex 4 controller and I absolutely love it. Seems to work with everything, is solidly built, and has precise controls.

I’m sure there are other options too, but this is one of the good ones!

Edit: apparently it does not work natively on PS5. My apologies - I thought it did, but was mistaken. I believe it can be done with special cables/adapters but that’s more hassle than it’s worth imo. For a PC controller though (how I use mine) - it’s absolutely my most favorite controller of all time (and I’ve been gaming since the Atari 2600). ;)

I’m literally arguing in another thread now about how weird corporations are about this. And here’s a prime example. The company shares their content on the internet freely. A medium where its inherent design is to consume the bits and pieces of the giant mass of data that you are interested in (and ignore the rest).

But because we choose to not watch the ads, and only the interesting parts (that they published freely) - THAT’S a reason to go after BPC with govt. action? Give me a break. If your content is so good, grow some balls, put it behind a hard paywall, ask me to pay for it, and stop leaving it laying around on the ground for all to view.

Congrats! Mint is a good place to start.

Right! I use the flatpak myself - works great.

There’s a native Linux version! No need for wine :)

I use makemkv. Works every time. Once in a while you have to open the disk “manually” and select the right track but ya, makemkv does it all.

Free if you want to update the beta trial key every few months. After years of use I bought a lifetime license for like $20. Probably the best value I’ve ever gotten.

Ah I see, #5 is just the header you’re using. You aren’t using 5 total. That makes more sense.

I don’t even have L-connect installed, but I did once upon a time. Maybe I changed a setting there and forgot about it, but I don’t think so. Either way it’s probably worth checking that your bios is set to “PWM” for that header, and that L-connect is set to “enable MB PWM Sync” under the fan/pump profile page. (Just from googling). Look for settings to turn off any L-connect interaction - forcing it to pay attention to the fan header?

I’m wondering if your controller is somehow set to ignore the header pins and run from just the usb port/L-connect. And maybe on a power cycle, your mobo thinks there’s no fan?

I dunno - I’m shooting in the dark now though. All I know is that my controller always shows up as a single fan, and all the attached fans run at the same speed - whatever the header calls for. No software installed, all wired connections are made, exhibits this same behavior regardless of OS, power cycles, reboots, etc.

Sorry I’m not more help - it’s frustrating when things that should “just work” don’t.

Oh! Did you plug in BOTH SATA connectors? I think one is for rgb and the other is for fan speed. Maybe that’s screwing things up?

“Fan 5 isn’t recognized”. This confuses me. Wouldn’t your motherboard only recognize the controller? For example I’m using two controllers. My motherboard sees a single cpu fan (the controller with 3 daisy chained fans on one port), and it sees a second chassis fan (the second controller with a 3 pack on one port, another three pack on the second port, and a single fan on the third port).

10 fans, 2 controllers, mobo only sees 2 “fans”. Here’s a video showing exactly how I wired mine up, and the type of fans and controllers (maybe we don’t have the same parts).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0wPi_zNzKF4

Hmmm…. I’ve got those exact fans and the controller that comes with them - 10 fans to be specific, and they really haven’t given me any trouble at all. There are three sets of 3 daisy chained, and one single fan. They connect to a relatively new asus board. I’m running arch and openrgb from the aur.

The fans doing fan things (spinning), that just works. They ramp up and down based on the case fan connector from the mobo. One three pack is on the radiator to an aio cooler and that triplet ramps up and down based on the fan speed header for the cpu.

The LIGHTS are a different story. If I cycle power completely, they do the default rainbow puke when started back up. OpenRGB required a little configuration and playing around to get the number of lights correct, and synching properly-but it worked. (I can get you my settings in openRGB if that helps avoid the trial and error). Because my mobo still supplies power when I power down, the lights hold their last pattern when I reboot.

So in my experience-those fans spin without any software and light up at least rainbow puke without any software. You only need software to get different colors or to just override the fan header and set a manual speed.

I’m wondering what your computer/mobo is doing to stop that. Weird.

Frostpunk - seems fun. Played a few hours.

Armored core 6 - um I died like 4 times in the tutorial. I was shamed and put it down.

But ya - it’s been Elden ring pretty much 90% of the time.

The real kick in the nuts is that Sonos is quite handy if you’re looking for whole house audio. Or it used to be.

Decent speakers that run over WiFi and don’t require knocking holes in walls. Could stream from your NAS, from a line in jack from a tv, or bridge your “real” stereo to your sonos products.

But they keep breaking all the things one by one. At this point I’m just waiting for someone to hack the speakers so I can use them with a foss alternative.