yeah bazzite is my daily driver on desktop and deck. you can use the htpc/deck image on non-nvidia systems to get the settigs panel (fps/hz, scaling, etc changed live) but I don’t want to have to switch between game and desktop mode on my desktop. I haven’t had much time outside of work other than my meager amount of sleeo and doomscrolling so I haven’t looked in to if the settings or overlays can be done as cleanly on desktop only images

The steam deck is kinda inconvenient when any level of tinkering is required due to switching between game and desktop mode and the input if you dont attach a keyboard and mouse. Non-deck distros lose the quick settings which I really like.

Try bottles too. you may or may not find it easier than lutris. I find the dependencies easier to install. After checking if anyone has already documented what dependencies are needed (directx, dotnet, etc.), I usually start with the default wine bottles uses, then try wine-ge and tkg at least before giving up. I have yet to find a game that cant be made to work but other software can be very finicky especially once dotnet is involved.

some people use a ‘drip wax’ as they go but I am not able to tell if it makes a difference when I tried it. If it is beneficial it’s either one of those “only an athlete could feel the performance increase” things or of benefit to the chain itself. I don’t use it, though partly out of leaving it in some dumb place and losing it. Some people only recommend hot wax for dry cycling, but I just use it anyway and do my kinda silly drying.

when I get home or to work I just use the garden hose to rinse any muck down the drain (indoor wet area both ends of route so no frozen hose), bounce the bike on the tires a bit to shake off a bunch of water, then use what is essentially a glorified sriracha bottle to squirt the isopropylene directly on the chain to displace the remaining water. dry season I just go straight to isopropyl. I have thought about things like if the iso can get in and ruin the grease in the bb or ruin the paint, etc. but never really looked in to it. seems fine after doing it from the beginning of last winter to now for my bike at least, but I’m not any kind of scientist or engineer.

Immersion waxes I do whenever I feel like it’s not quite necessary yet but can’t hurt, plus before and after winter. I used a chain wax off amazon, forgot brand but its kinda dark grey or blackish, in a second hand slow cooker.

My procedure is heat wax, rinse chains and swish in the tub of old yellowed iso (or degreaser then rinse then iso if new), hang up chains vertically and straight or folded in half, heat gun to melt the old wax and let it drip a bit, then put in the hot wax with a bent wire hook around the center pin and swish it. I use chopsticks to wiggle all the links a bit and to detangle the chain without burning myself. After hanging it to dry if the wax looks thick or uneven I heat gun it again to smooth it and reduce the wax chain dandruff and prevent janky shifting while the excess wax is being shed off the pivots.

I do 5-8 at a time and any that seem like further use will permanently worsen them I store for the next time I have enough chains waiting to justify heating the wax. I just rinse and iso and flail it around to dry for storage and even go extra and bag it with dessicant because I have a jug for 3d printer filament anyway.

As a side note, if anyone knows any reasons I shouldn’t do any of this please let me know. I have heard from one of the waxing tutorials online that long soaks in degreaser can worsen the structural integrity of the chain’s metal so I keep that to a minimum already.

indeed have not seen anything like it before… are current solar panels able to handle that kind of wear and tear though? Also seems uncomfortable

nice to see more gearbox motors. hopefully this turns out to be good.

front loaders are so much better for diy maintenance and repairs. that bike looks like you would have to join 2-3 chains of the length they are typically sold in to make a replacement. you can also easily see if something falls out too.

for a regular bike, I replaced all my rusted bolts with titanium ones and aluminum for ones that are not under load, hot waxed chain with no drip wax ever and a bottle of 99% isopropyl that I use to flash off the water. I used to take the chain off and dunk it but work has infinite iso so I just use the pinhole sprayer directly on the chain. If I cared about the finish of the frame maybe I wouldn’t do that but it doesn’t seem to affect this one.

I mean that will do it too, but it will be sticky and stain your skin and also smell awful

ah, just like how cam out is a feature of phillips screws that improves the spinning performance of the driver

white plastics have a history of becomig yellow

how much do lenses cost like this?

wtf it was real?

I only buy accessories that will work without having to manually install anything. The whole concept of end users installing drivers can go to hell.

can ford just have a stroke and fuck of for good already? he’s always been a fucking idiot. Wasn’t he behind the shitload of money used to take down an already built wind farm without it running even once?

Every year is the year of the linux desktop. Sure it has just as many problems as the others but it gets better every year and I certainly never felt the same about windows. Mac I don’t have that reverse winding in my head that makes people find the apple UI’s intuitive.

I had to think about this because in my town they are soggy and wet 99% of the time. Then I remembered last year I stepped on one that crunched.

I was wondering how arbitrary code execution was harming pirates… I’ve been watching too much any% speedrunning

I need a 70lb version

I think one of the existing chocolate printers actually used that design. I was concerned about chocolate pellets in a printed hopper though.

he does say you can do chocolate. apart from the hot end, auger, and mechanical parts it’s all 3d printed though. I guess you could go through the cursed endeavour of setting up an all stainless printer to print all the parts in one of those so called food grade filaments but I don’t trust that much. Or you can just operate off the understanding that we are all saturated in plastic already.