I printed all my parts on the grandfather of your Ender - a Monoprice branded Wanhao I3 plus. It has a microswiss hot end, but other than that it’s largely stock. I did have to reprint my cooling duct and bed thumbweels since the non-stock PETG parts were deforming. 100C on an ultrabase bed and a cardboard box enclosure worked well assuming everything was level (one of my z-motors likes to misstep sometimes…). I used ASA for my parts at 245. It was my first time printing anything at a higher temp. My first print didn’t turn out that great due to hot end temp fluctuations, but a PID tune sorted that out. I didn’t do any tuning beyond some on the fly adjustments of the extrusion multiplier.

I didn’t spend a lot of time thinking about tap vs klicky and went the klicky route. Tap is nice in that it lets your printer detect nozzle crashes, but it might add some resonance and I honestly didn’t spend much time researching pros/cons.

As for quality of life parts, I suggest going sex bolt for the z-end stop. The stock option involves a section of metal rod that will fall out when you flip your printer over. I found the stock hinges for the front door hard to print with my lack of tuning on my i3, so I used these instead. If you’re going to be removing your panels often magnetic panel mounts are a good idea. I’m planning on building the filter instead of a nevermore for a combination of bed fan and filter. I suspect I’m going to end up with a different spool holder in the future, but don’t know what it will be yet. If you’re going to be printing tall parts, a top hat can buy you somewhere between 20-40mm, but I personally didn’t bother. I’m also building a 350mm, so 300mm in z is probably ok for now.